the Elegance and Subtle Formality of Kimonos

Jul 26, 2024 | cgk.ink writes:, fashion, Japanese design & culture

The haori (羽織) is a traditional Japanese jacket worn over a kimono. Resembling a shortened kimono with no overlapping front panels (okumi), the haori typically features a thinner collar than that of a kimono, and is sewn with the addition of two thin, triangular panels at either side seam. The haori is usually tied at the front with two short cords, known as haori himo, which attach to small loops sewn inside the garment.

During the Edo period, economic growth within the wealthy but low-status merchant classes resulted in an excess of disposable income, much of which was spent on clothing. It was during this period that, due to various edicts on dress mandated by the ruling classes, merchant-class Japanese men began to wear haori with plain external designs and lavishly-decorated linings, a trend still seen in men’s haori

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types of kimonos

Komon (小紋)

Komon (小紋): The lowest form of normal kimono. Meaning “Small Pattern,” it is characterized by its repeating patterns that can either be printed, painted, stencilled, or woven. They are worn as everyday wear, like when shopping or being out and around town.

It is a versatile and everyday kimono style that features repeating patterns. Whether you’re out shopping or exploring the town, Komon is the perfect choice for casual wear. Its charming designs add a touch of elegance to your daily activities, making you stand out with effortless style.

Iromuji (色無地)

Iromuji (色無地): The second lowest of the normal kimono and the lowest of all formal kimono. Iromuji means “Single Solid Colour” and consists of just one colour with no decoration whatsoever. The only adornment that may be found would be patterns woven into the silk itself, but otherwise is quite plain. Weaving designs into silk is called Rinzu (綸子). Iromuji is also the lowest formality in which you will find Kamon (家紋). Meaning “Family Crest,” they are added to kimono as a sign of formality. Kamon can be added in sets of five, being the most formal, three, being the second most formal, and one, being the least formal. The number of kamon must also match the level of formality for the kimono, so you will only ever find a single kamon on an iromuji.

Tsukesage (付け下げ)

Tsukesage (付け下げ): The middle level of formality of all kimono. The term comes from the placement of its patterns as Tsueksage means “To Put Down.” Kimono are stitched together from long, rectangular pieces of fabric known as Tan (反), which are visible at the seam lines. When it comes to a tsueksage the decoration will always stay within the individual tan and not cross over to create larger or more cohesive patterns. When seen from afar the patterns seem to flow downwards, hence the name. They are almost always made of silk and can feature kamon, but only up to three.

Houmongi (訪問着)

Houmongi (訪問着): The second most formal kimono and considered suitable to wear to all formal occasions. They are often considered the most beautiful kimono because they are covered by flowing patterns and motifs that stretch across the entire garment. The name houmongi means “Visiting Wear” as they were originally worn to pay respects to neighbours on formal occasions. They will feature kamon more often than not and can have anywhere between one and five of them present. Du to their high formality they are always made from silk.

Furisode (振袖)

Furisode (振袖): The most formal type of kimono for unmarried women. When it comes to furisode there are three different sleeve lengths. They are: Ko Furisode (小振袖), meaning “Small Swinging Sleeves,” Chū Furisode (中振袖), meaning “Middle Swinging Sleeves,” and Ō Furisode (大振袖), meaning “Large Swinging Sleeves.” Today the word furisode brings to mind the ō furisode as it’s the most commonly worn type, but prior to World War II it was very common to also see ko furisode and chū furisode as sleeve length determined how formal a kimono was. Ko furisode and chū furisode are considered semi-formal wear, but are rarely ever made anymore due to the decline in kimono ownership.

Tomesode (留袖)

Tomesode (留袖): The most formal kimono of all. It is characterized by its solid colour background, usually black, and motifs that are only found bellow the waist. Black used to be the hardest colour dye to produce before synthetic or imported dyes were introduced, so it was considered a precious colour that would only be used for the most important garments. Tomesode means “Fastened Sleeves” as traditionally a bride would cut the sleeves from her furisode and then wear that kimono as a married woman in the form of a tomesode. They will always feature five crests and are worn by married women to formal occasions, usually the mother of the bride or groom at a wedding.

— source

next-level gift wrapping

Nov 8, 2023 | cgk.ink writes:, Japanese design & culture

Giftwrap has been around since the invention of paper itself, which has been around since at least 105 A.D. in China.

The Japanese (and Chinese and Koreans) take their gift wrapping seriously. Like most East Asian arts and crafts, the level of attention and skills required is an extension of the creator’s emotions and thoughts behind the object being given

When giving gifts or sending presents in Japan, it is customary to show special care not only to the contents, but to the way a gift is wrapped and the wrapping itself. In Japanese culture, gift wrapping can be as important as the gift, where the gift is viewed as a form of communication between the giver and the receiver. The chosen gift wrapping serves an important role in shaping the messaging associated with the gift. In short, the wrapping is considered as part of the gift itself and should reflect both the gift being given and the emotions behind the gift.

The distinction of a gift being wrapped is an important one when it comes to receiving a gift. Except among close family members, gifts must not be unwrapped in front of the donor of the gift. The recipient should wait until later to open the gift.

There are many rules and customs of associated with Japanese gift wrapping, many of which imply how you feel towards the person and the the message behind the gift. The gift wrap color choices are one of ways that this communication takes place. Also, the wrapping of the gift is not necessarily meant to hide the gift, but to accentuate it — with gift wraps designed to reveal some items while concealing others. A couple of other methods of symbolism that can be used…

Pleating — providing an odd number of pleats in your wrapping symbolizes joy
Yin & Yang — combining two different materials symbolizes the yin-yang that represent the interconnected and interdependent forces of the natural world
Asymmetry — asymmetry is considered more visually appealing in Japan culture

Tsutsumi or Origata

One style of Japanese gift wrapping, called tsutsumi — which means to cover, conceal or wrap — or origata uses paper and fabric to wrappings for gifts, presents and packages. The unique aspect of this technique is that the paper and/or fabric is never cut. Instead it is pleated, folded and tied. Ranging from the simple to the sophisticated, this technique traditionally uses handmade paper (washi) to express beauty, etiquette and culture and often employs techniques seen in origami.

The intent with this wrapping style is not to conceal the gift, but to enhance it’s shape and to give some clue to the contents. This style allows the gift itself to be exposed. For example, high quality tea leaves are often given as a present in Japan. When wrapping black tea (known as ko-cha, or “red tea”), red paper inserted in a slit on the top of the package, then overlaid with a film to provide a glimpse into what is in the package.

A sophisticated system of rules has been created for origata wrapping. The style depends on the gift recipient, the occasion, and even the season.

Furoshiki

A furoshiki is the technique of wrapping a gift with fabric. This style is perfect for birthdays, holidays, weddings, or everyday marketing and shopping and was originally used to carry clothes to the bathhouse. Made in a variety of sizes, the cloth is extremely handy and can be folded up after each use to wrap or carry something else. It ‘s very flexible as a wrapping technique and lends itself to various shapes and sizes of packages. There is even a way to wrap and carry two bottles together.

The Japanese Ministry of Environment has been promoting furoshiki to promote recycling, as the cloth can be reused for different occasions, helping to reduce the wasting of paper.

Thanks to Giftypedia.com for the info!

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sashiko, kimonos & history

Oct 19, 2023 | blue, cgk.ink writes:, color, fashion, indigo, Japanese design & culture

Textiles say so much about the culture in which they are worn and used.

Clothing can immediately identify who we are and what our history is. One can tell eastern v. western, wealthy v. impoverished, northern v southern. Clothing also tells us about the society that created it.

A recent BBC Culture story by Bel Jacobs: The 300-year-old Japanese method of upcycling explores the method of sashiko.

Kimono screen — *^{Seventeenth century screen by Iwasa Matabei (via Wikimedia Commons)}*

Sashiko emerged through necessity, particularly in poor rural areas, during the Edo period. “Cotton came late to the north of Japan,” explains craft and design writer Katie Treggiden. “So the only way people could get hold of it was as tiny rags of fabrics, that were either passed around or bought from tradesmen from the south. Sashiko – literally, ‘little stabs’ – was a way of connecting all those little pieces into a quilted fabric, known as boro, that would keep them warm.”

The Surprising History of the Kimono

The first ancestor of the kimono was born in the Heian period (794-1192). Straight cuts of fabric were sewn together to create a garment that fit every sort of body shape. It was easy to wear and infinitely adaptable. By the Edo period (1603-1868) it had evolved into a unisex outer garment called kosode. Literally meaning “small sleeves,” the kosode was characterized by smaller armholes. It was only from the Meiji period (1868-1912) onwards that the garment was called kimono. This last transformation, from the Edo era to modern Japan, is fascinating.

In the early 1600s, First Shogun Tokugawa unified Japan into a feudal shogunate. Edo, renamed Tokyo in 1868, now became Japan’s chief city. The resulting Edo Period (also called the Tokugawa Era) spanned 264 years. The years 1603 to 1868 are known as the last era of traditional Japan. Japanese culture developed with almost no foreign influence during this time. And the kosode was one of the key elements of what it meant to be Japanese.

(Source: Gabrielle Berlinger via jstor.org)